the roof work begins

also this week we finished off any frame work straps, butt joints etc

the straps are used to add resistance against wind uplift and help keep the roof to the frame and frame to the sub floor product nails are used and have 6 on top and 6 on the bottom of the strap

strap connecting frame to sub floor

also the roof trusses were delivered as showen in the videos below note: they are extremely long

the scaffolding is over

 

as the title says we finished scaffolding this week by placing put logs, planks, hand rails and stairs as showen in the picture and video below also not showen is we also had to cut pipes to make walking room between houses that is done with a tool that i do not know the name of but it clamps down on the pipe then is rolled around and cuts the pipe





scaffolding on side of house



the end of this week

the pictures below show how far we got at the and of the week with the scaffolding

an example of angle bracing

the back of the house

the side of the house our group did

mobile scaffolding inside the house

the last photo helps show the diffrence between mobile and fixed scaffolding while fixed is safer mobile is more conveniount and easyer to put together and take appart. the video is just a quick sum up of what i learned about scaffolding and what i may have missed in my last post.

scaffolding/heaps of work has begun

my last post on the house only talked about the 1st day the other two were spent on scaffolding collecting the required poles and conectors and that is very tiring but in a way also a good workout

there are many types of conectors used in scaffolding these are pictures of them

right angle cupling

swiveling cupling

jointer

interer jointer

first jointer used and the most common is the right angle cupling it is used to fix the vertical standard to the horrizontal ledger and the propper way to use it is with the claw holding the pipe if not installed that way dismantling the scaffold can be dangerous

next is the swiveling cupling that is used to help give horizontal resistance just as an angle brace would also it is weaker than a right angle cupling

then there is the jointer that extends pipes (standard and ledger) also the ends must fit in the grove like in the picture above
there is another type of jointer that is the interer jointer it is only used where it is impraticle to use a normal jointer due to other conectors etc because it is weaker than the normal jointer
also there are the half clips (i do not have a photo my bad) that are used to lock put logs to the ledger. some people also use them to lock the planks onto the put logs.

once we have everything we put it together we space the standard at about 2.4m length and 1.5m width and has ledgers at the bottom for bracing and then at every spot where putt logs and planks need to be placed then horizontal braces are placed widthwise between the standards after this is done we take the level and spacer to straighten the scaffolding and keep the correct spacing between pipes as showen below

using the spacer

using the level

important things to remember:

• when the scaffolding is over 3m high you must have a top and mid rail and toe board on top of the planks
• if over 5m high you must notify osh
• always wear a hard hat on sight because there are many hazareds

quick house vid

this vid i made is just a quick sum up of whats going on with the house enjoy

the beginings of a roof

this week we continued with straightening the house with the stringlines and braces as showen below

bracing on top plate



bracing on bearer

 i also had to go to all the butt joints of the exteiour walls this is done by first clamping them together to get rid of any space between them an then they are nailed together then at some points at the bottom plate of the walls are marked where wind ties or straps are being placed. Next nogs are placed at those spots not to add structural strength but to purely hold the wind ties or straps.

while this was being done the others were installing the double top plates and ceiling battons for the back bedrooms the double top plates were cut at 320mm (not entirely sure on that) and nailed on the top plate with 25mm overhang if on inteirer walls also spacings were made for ceiling battons on inteirer walls exteirer on the other hand had no spaces and had to be butt joined all this is showen below

ceiling batton on ineirer wall

ceiling batton on exteirer wall

another week another blog

we are back from our 2 week holiday and got back to the usual work on the house

this week we restraightend the walls through the bottom and top plates as well as the sub floor
the reason why we do this is because due to weather etc while we were gone the timber would have moved and maybe cuped so we fix this so that the house is straight as well as the walls so that the gib board fits flat without any problems

we straightin up the sub floor by simply using a clamp (showen below) to grab onto the boundry joist and the 2nd joist from it and it should line up with the BL (building line) showen by a string line and checked with doger blocks. also force by the use of a sledge helps

straighting up the boundry joist

we then straighten up the bottom and top plates by attaching string lines and use dodger blocks like with the boundry joist except this time we use braces as well as force and the tacking of nails i do not have a photo of these but will next week